This page is divided into the following sections:
This page discusses the design, construction, and firing of a 1/12 scale trebuchet. A trebuchet is a gravity powered catapult which was used extensively in the middle ages. They were so successful at knocking down stone walls that castle designers thickened the walls in an attempt to deal with these deadly siege machines.
Other types of siege weapons include:
At its most basic understanding, a trebuchet is simply a lever that uses centrifugal force to its advantage. Consider a playground seesaw. If a person is sitting on one end of a seesaw, and two people suddenly jump on the other end, the seated person is likely to go flying. Like a seesaw, a trebuchet is also pivoted in the middle, but the two participants are the counter-weight and the projectile. The counter-weight is usually much heavier than the projectile, typically by a ratio of 10 to 1 or more.
In addition to unequal weights, the trebuchet uses leverage. The counter-weight arm of the seesaw is usually shorter than the projectile arm by a ratio of 4 to 1 or more. This allows the longer projectile arm to move 4 times as far for each move of the shorter counter-weight arm.
The trebuchet also uses centrifugal force to launch the projectile. If you take a bucket of water and rapidly rotate it with your arm, water will stay in the bucket even when the bucket is upside down because the rotational acceleration holds the water in place. If you release the bucket, the circular acceleration of the bucket is converted to linear motion, and the bucket is launched in the air. Similarly, when you throw a ball, you rotate your forearm and wrist about your elbow, and releasing the ball causes it to launch linearly.
The trebuchet works the same way. The projectile slides backwards along a track. Then the arm pulls the sling skyward, causing the projectile to follow an arc. At the apex, one end of the sling releases the projectile, causing it to launch skyward. A key feature of the sling is that one end is fixed and one end releases. A small finger or prong holds the non-fixed end of the sling. When the sling is nearly vertical, the end of the sling slides of the prong and releases the projectile.
Finally, you may notice that the counter-weight arm is also hinged. Basically this allows the weight to fall more vertically than a non-hinged arm. The extra vertical travel allows gravity more time to pull on the weight and give the projectile some added acceleration.
This trebuchet is a 1/12 scale working model. Much of the mathematics and calculations of trebuchet design is discussed at The Algorithmic Beauty of the Trebuchet page. I used the Trebuchet Range Calculator to select the dimensions of my trebuchet.
Here are the dimensions:
Height to pivot | 12 inches |
Length of long arm | 15 inches (adjustable +/- 1 inch) |
Length of short arm | 4 inches (adjustable +/- 0.5 inch) |
Length of launch channel and sling | 12 inches |
Length of counter-weight arm | 4 inches |
Weight of counter weight | 10 pounds |
Weight of typical projectile | 0.25 pounds |
Range | About 33 feet |
Accuracy | + / - 1 foot or about 5% |
The Trebuchet Range Calculator predicted a 0.25 pound projectile would fly 12 feet. I used a 0.1 pound projectile (a small rubber ball from a beach paddleball game) and achieved regular launches of 33 feet or more. The predictions are in line with what happened in the real world.
The model is constructed with bass wood and materials found at any hobby shop. Bass wood is a soft wood similar to pine and slightly stronger and heavier than balsa wood. For added strength, you could also construct a trebuchet out of walnut or other hard wood, but the cutting and sanding would be a bit more difficult. Materials cost about $10 and the entire project required about 1 hour of design work and 8 hours of construction. Following is a pictorial guide to the construction.
Here is my work bench. Notice that I cut a few pieces
down to size. I typically use lap joints and Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue. The
lap joints are not really necessary, but they are so easy to do in the soft
wood, and it gives the trebuchet a nice touch. The glue is much stronger than
the wood and my trebuchet has not failed after about 50 firings. The wood weight
of the model is about 5% of the counter-weight. It is amazing how such little
material is so strong.
First, I constructed the base using 1/4" square bass
wood. The base is 12" by 4". I later found that the trebuchet experiences quite
a bit of side to side rocking and a wider base might be more appropriate.
Another option is to do like I did and fix the base of the trebuchet to the
ground. This can be done with weights or anchors. I cut a few wire coat hangers
to anchor the base to the lawn when launching.
This shows the construction of the vertical supporting
arms for the trebuchet. I made the verticals 12" and lapped the bottom edge to
the base. The material is 1/4" by 1/2" bass wood. Since these posts support the
entire weight of the arm and the counter weight, looking back I wish I would
have used 1/2" by 1/2" bass wood for a beefer construction. Also, this would
have made the pivot area thicker and more likely to with stand the rotational
forces of the arm.
To help support the vertical post, I added diagonals
of 1/4" by 1/4" bass wood. I cut small wedges into both the vertical post and
the base to anchor these diagonal braces. Also shown is the pivot axle of the
trebuchet. Originally I used 3/16" aluminum tubing, but this bent under the
weight of the arm. Here is shown 3/16" solid brass rod. Not only is it stronger,
it also is more polished and has less friction for the hurl.
This image shows the assembly of the arm and the
launch trough. The arm is made of 3 pieces of 3/8" by 3/8" bass wood. Twelve
inches of the arm is extended alone and forms the longer end of the trebuchet
arm. Eight inches of the arm consists of two of these pieces which receive holes
for the pivot axle and the counter-weight arm axle. Five inches of these 3
pieces overlap and provide a strong, triple strength center section of the arm.
The launch trough guides the projectile as firing begins. Here I glue four
pieces of 1/4" by 1/2" wood together. Two pieces form the base of the channel.
Once piece on each side forms the walls of the channel. Later, this trough is
glued to the base of the trebuchet.
Here is a close-up of the arm and the pivot axle.
Notice that there are 5 holes for the axle in case you want to experiment and
get the best toss out of the trebuchet. In practice I was happy with the center
hole and used this for all launches. Similarly I made 3 holes for the
counter-weight arm, but I used the center hole which is one inch from the end of
the shorter arm. The axle is a friction fit and nothing else holds it in place.
It extends about 1/2" beyond each vertical post arm and provides much of the
lateral stiffness of the trebuchet.
Here is a view of the counter-weight. I used a 10
pound weight from scuba diver's dive belt. It is vinyl plastic coated lead and
is very dense for its size. Two eyelets are screwed into the lead, and a large
key ring attaches the eyelets to the counter-weight axle. The key ring is a
split type that can unhinge to help detach the weight. In practice, this large
key ring was the only item that failed on the trebuchet, often unhinging and
dropping the weight. However, because it and the axle are metal on metal, there
was very little friction in the rotation of the weight arm.
Here is a detail of the sling and the projectile
pouch. I trimmed a corner off my automobile chamois cloth and glued the corners
into a reinforced triangular fold. The sling rope is merely twine, which is not
the strongest string, but it gives the sling a very rustic look. The twine it
attached to a small screw in the arm and the pouch via a simple knot. The knot
is soaked with Zap-A-Gap CA glue to help freeze it into place. The free end of
the sling is knotted to a small metal washer. The washer goes over the small
prong or "finger" in the end of the arm. The prong is at a 20 or 30 degree angle
up from the arm, to help release the washer and the sling at precisely the right
moment in the launch.
Not shown is the small rubber paddle ball used as a projectile. It is about
0.1 pounds, 1" in diameter and bright yellow. Also not shown is the launch
trigger. I affixed an eyelet to the end of the channel. A safety pin grabs the
prong on the end of the launch arm. Twine attached to the safety pin pulls it
away from the finger, releasing the arm and launching the projectile.
Now for the fun part - firing the thing!
Here is our completed trebuchet and our brave launch
manager Joe showing the size and scale of the model. Joe is 12" tall and nearly
reaches the pivot axle. Like all safety-conscious trebuchet firers, Joe is
wearing Oakley safety glasses, and he stands to the side of the machine. He also
carries a clipboard to log the result of the launches, a two-way radio to
communicate with the firing range manager, and binoculars to see the impact of
the projectile.
The throwing arm is cocked and ready to fire. The arm comes down from the pivot axle at an angle that reaches the end of the firing trough. The trigger pin holds onto the prong at the end of the arm which keeping the potential energy of the elevated counter-weight in place. The sling, pouch, and projectile are sitting in the firing trough at the base of the trebuchet. When the throwing arm fires, the projectile is dragged toward the back of the trebuchet along the trough. As the arm rotates skyward, the sling and the projectile dragged along, rotating in a graceful curve that begins at the back of the firing trough.
It is tough to see, but the trebuchet base is anchored to the lawn via 6 cut
coat hangers pressed into the ground. The lawn looks like a typical mid-January
lawn in Austin, Texas. Conditions are bright and sunny, 65 degrees with little
wind. Aircraft have been warned that this launch range is a restricted air
space.
Here we see the first test firing! The arm is nearly
vertical and travelling at high speed. The counter-weight has reached the bottom
of its travel.
Just visible in the top of the picture is the target, a crab apple tree about
33 feet from the trebuchet. In practice, the trebuchet was highly accurate. Each
shot fell within a 1 foot radius at the base of the tree, The shots were highly
repeatable. I did not have an adjustable counter-weight, but other trebuchets
typically use a bucket of rocks as a counter-weight. More or less rocks can be
added or removed to finely tune the range.
Here is a front 3/4 view of the trebuchet firing. Once
again the arm is vertical and the sling can be seen in mid flight. The free end
is undone, and the projectile has left the pouch and is on its way to the
target.
Here is the opposite side view of another launch. Once
again the sling is loose and the projectile is on its way in the air. Just
visible to the left is the trigger rope leading off camera to our lovely
trebuchet firing assistant.
This trebuchet model was an enjoyable and surprising project. The design and construction were both challenging and interesting, and this small project allows you to exercise both your mind and your hands. It was surprising because the mathematical model corresponded so well with the range and actual performance in the field. For an object that is 12" tall and works on only gravity to fire an object 33 feet attests to the beauty and pragmatism of the trebuchet design. Second, the accuracy of the trebuchet was uncanny. Hitting a 1 foot radius circle repeatedly from a distance of 33 feet amounts to a less than 3% error. Not bad for a small model.
If you have read this far, thank you for showing interest in the project, and I hope you found this page enjoyable.
Read more about trebuchets and ancient artillery at trebuchet.com. Coming next time, explosive and flammable projectiles.